Musée Cantini in Marseille

You're standing at the Musée Cantini in Marseille. The building in front of you might not look like a home for modern art, and you'd be right. It's more than three hundred years old. It was built in 1694 for the Compagnie du Cap Nègre, a company that fished for coral off the northern coast of Tunisia and traded in wool, wax and leather. Picture merchants coming and going, with the smell of the harbour in the air.